Archive for the ‘credit report’ Category

Blog Carnivals in Review

Friday, April 10th, 2009

Recent blog carnivals have covered a wide breadth of topics on debt and other personal finance topics. Some of the more interesting this week include:

Money Hacks Carnival

Solid Planning Tips and Tricks Carnival

Carnival of Twenty-Something Finances

Festival of Frugality

Carnival of Personal Development

Carnival of Wealth, Money, and Life

Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Credit-Card Issuers Strike Back!

Sunday, March 15th, 2009

For those counting on relief from the new rules set to constrain credit card lending practices on consumers, a new approach to improve household finances needs to be considered. The Wall Street Journal blog The Wallet has a piece on the strategies that credit card companies hope to use in order to regain their profit-taking from consumers once the new regulations come into effect. Profit-taking from consumers via credit cards is a fancy description of what amounts to a financial setback for anyone trying to fix their finances – with or without a current debt burden.

Some of the eye-popping highlights of lender strategies moving forward:

“• Moving cardholders’ interest rates to a variable index prior to the compliance date,

• Shortening the duration of introductory interest rates.

• Offering higher interest rates for new customers

• Implementing annual service fees for customers who don’t use their cards very much.

The bank also said it is looking at ‘alternative product constructs that maintain low contract APRs, offset with membership fees.’ ”

A variable index spells trouble for someone with precarious finances because it represents an increase in risk due to uncertainty of terms like interest rates. Confusion about exactly what percentage in interest you’re charged from month to month can spoil an otherwise solid debt plan and derail your timeline to emerge from debt completely.

Shortened introductory interest rate periods are also problematic for those in debt. Shorter periods decrease the value of using a balance transfer strategy to keep interest rates on your outstanding debt low when making aggressive debt reduction payments. For some debt profiles, these changes will now take the “zero percent offer” strategy off the table.

Higher interest rates on newly-opened cards represents a clear downside for one’s personal finances: more punishment for the consumer that revolves even a small balance on their plastic from month to month. A better bet: skip the credit cards completely; or, if you suffer an unusually high amount due to a complete lack of a credit history, open a no fee credit card with a very low and fixed credit limit, and cut up the card immediately upon its receipt in the mail: do not use it, not even once.

Annual service fees are an unwelcome addition to the financial environment. Everyone should keep tabs on whether or not annual fees are being added to any of their existing credit cards.  Not sure what the status is on your array of plastic? It takes minutes to solve: call the toll-free number on the back of each of your cards, and ask the lender whether or not you have an annual fee on the card right now. Also confirm that no annual fee will be added moving forward.

Membership fees are still fees that eat away at your financial health. With the expected rise of “membership fees” on credit cards, you can double up your questions on your phone call to your credit card lender and ask about these as well. Make sure they are not being added to your account.

Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

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Understanding Your Debt Health (DTI Ratios)

Friday, February 20th, 2009

Most people are familiar with credit scores and know that they’re a measure of credit quality.  But do you know what it actually is?  You may be surprised, but your credit score actually doesn’t consider your income.  It just predicts how well you’re likely to continue to make payments based on your current debt level and past payment history.  Because of the way it’s calculated, it doesn’t attempt to predict how much debt you can afford to pay back based on your income.

To calculate whether your debt level is affordable, lenders use different metrics that compare your debt and other financial obligations to your income.  Front-end and Back-end Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratios are two that are frequently used by mortgage lenders as an indicator of your monthly financial health.  The names sound intimidating, but they’re just ratios that compare your fixed  monthly debt payments and other financial commitments to your monthly income to give lenders a sense for your ability to pay off your debt over time.  If your DTI levels are high, it means that a large portion of your income is going to cover your debt obligations and, as a result, you have a higher likelihood of not being able to manage your payments over time.

Understanding Your Income

Lenders take a holistic view of your income and include many factor that you may not immediately think of it when you think of your monthly income such as alimony, child support, social security payments, income from a second job (if you have had this source of income for at least two years), and investment income.  Generally, lenders will take you annual income and translate it into a monthly figure.

Front-End DTI (Housing Debt)

Front-End DTI is a measure of your ability to afford your current or proposed housing.  The mortgage lending guideline has traditionally been 28%.  The US Government considers 30% to be the point at which housing begins to be unaffordable.  So how is it calculated?

The front-end ratio is calculated by comparing the ratio of monthly housing expense to your gross (pre-tax) monthly income.  The monthly housing expense consists of principal, interest, property taxes, and insurance (PITI).  Since many housing choices have mandatory homeowner’s association dues and mortgage insurance, these amounts are added to the PITI to calculate the complete front-end DTI ratio.

What is a healthy front-end DTI?

Compare your DTI to the table below:

<28% 28% has been the traditional “safe” limit for bank lending and is a highly manageable housing debt load.
28-30% 28% has been the traditional “safe” limit for banks and 30% is the point at which the US government considers housing to start to be a risk.
>30% Above 30%, the expense ratio is such that the homeowner is at higher risk of default.  Many private mortgage lenders increased Front-End lending standards to 33% during the mortgage boom.

Back-End DTI (Total Debt Health)

The second measurement that lenders use to assess a lender’s health is the Back-End ratio, which is a comparison of your total monthly debt payments (PITI plus other monthly debt payments AND all of your other debt and fixed commitments) to your gross monthly income.  This measurement captures all recurring obligations beyond those attributable to housing (PITI + association dues and mortgage insurance).  This includes traditional debt such as credit card debt payments, auto loans, student loans, medical debt, and other loans.  But it also includes other fixed obligations such as auto leases, child support, alimony, judgments, and other monthly obligations.

When computing this ratio, lenders look at the long term and generally only consider your obligations that will still exist after 6-10 months.

So what’s healthy?  Traditionally, lenders consider a Back-End ratio less than 38% as manageable and healthy.  How are you?  Compare your ratio to the table below:

<32% This is a highly conservative debt load for most people and should be highly manageable, with very little risk to your broader financial goals.
32-36% This is a very manageable debt load for most people and is generally considered very manageable by lenders.  With this debt load, there is little risk that these commitments will become unmanageable.
36-42% This level of financial commitment may be manageable in the short run, but can put you at risk over the longer term.  Work to reduce your debt load to the lower end of this range by paying off credit card and other debt as rapidly as possible.
42-49% This debt ratio is high and could indicate future financial difficulty if you don’t take immediate action.  Pay off credit card and other obligations as quickly as possible to improve your financial condition.
>50% At this level, you may have to consider immediate drastic action to move to a safer zone.  Pay off credit card and other obligations as quickly as possible to improve your financial condition.  If you feel that you cannot make headway against your debt with your current resources, see help from a qualified credit counselor.  At this level, you may also have to consider options such as debt settlement or bankruptcy.

Summary

As with everything, the front-end and back-end DTI metrics are relative.  If you don’t have consumer debt such as credit card and auto debt, you may be comfortable with a higher front-end DTI.  If you have children and anticipate the costs of children and college educations, you may wish to keep your debt ratios lower than a couple that does not anticipate having children.  Finally, if you are older and anticipating retirement, you may wish to have lower DTI ratios than someone younger who has longer to pay off their debt.

As with many things in life, there are no absolutes and your comfort level may depend on factors.  But in this case lower is always better, so aggressively work your DTI ratios down to a comfortable level.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Understand Your Credit Score

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

Credit Basics: How Banks Price Risk

Credit is simple.  The more likely a borrower is to default on a loan, the higher the likelihood that the lender will lose money on that loan, even with the interest fees.  As a result, lenders often refuse to make loans to risky borrowers or charge higher rates because they know that some portion of risky borrowers will default.

Although this sounds unfair, it’s is simply the lending market at work: pricing the default risk as an implicit cost of making the loan.  The difference in cost can be dramatic.  Two people getting a $200,000 loan on the same house might pay very different interest rates based on their credit histories.  A borrower with a high credit score might qualify for an interest rate of 6% while the less creditworthy borrower might qualify for a 7.5% rate.  This difference of 1.5% in interest rates translates into a higher monthly payment of $250 and adds up to over $70,000 in higher interest payments over the life of the loan.  Just think what you could do with that savings!

Getting Your Credit Score

Although you can get a copy of your credit report for free at www.annualcreditreport.com, you will generally have to pay to get your credit score.  You can purchase this at www.myFICO.com.

Credit Scores: Your Credit History in a 3-Digit Number

Before the advent of the credit score, lenders used to carefully review each potential borrower’s credit file for signs that they would faithfully repay the loan.  As lenders grew in size and volumes of transactions, this personal review process became cumbersome and full of variation.  As a result, methods were created for summarizing all the information in your credit file into a single number.

This credit scores provides a standardized way of comparing the risk that a borrower will default on a loan.  The higher your score, the less risk you present of default, so lenders will be willing to lend to you at a lower rate.  Because not all lenders report to all credit bureaus, the three major credit bureaus may report different credit scores.

The first company to popularize the credit score was Fair Isaac, creator of the FICO score.  Since then, other scores have emerged, but the FICO score remains the most popular.  Regardless of the model used, credit scores are generally between 350 at the low end to 850 at the high end.

How Your Credit Score is Determined

FICO scores are determined by assigning varying weights to five important factors:

  1. Payment History (35%)
    Borrowers who are current on their accounts generally have lower default risk.  Delinquencies, late payments, collection actions, and bankruptcies have a major negative impact on your score.  The more recent the delinquency is, the larger the negative impact.  The good news is that by paying on time, your credit score can start to improve in as little as 6 months, although bankruptcies will stay on your credit report for 10 years.
  2. Outstanding Debt and Credit Line Utilization (30%)
    This factors in your overall debt levels on auto and home loans as well as how close your credit card balances are to the credit limit.  This last factor, your credit line utilization (total credit card balances divided by total credit line), measures how much of your credit you are using.  Fair Isaac has found that borrowers who use a higher percentage of their available credit are a higher risk of default.  Your credit line utilization should ideally be less than 25% and roughly the same on all cards.
  3. Length of Credit History (15%)
    A long credit history gives creditors an idea of your payment actions over a period of time. If you have a short credit history less is known about your risk and therefore creditors conservatively rate you as higher risk.
  4. New Credit and Credit Inquiries (10%)
    Opening a new account may indicate that you are taking on debt obligations that you won’t be able to manage or that you are desperate and are relying on credit to meet expenses.  Similarly, applying for credit which shows up as a hard inquiry on your credit report, may indicate that you are about to take on more debt than you can handle.  Soft inquiries from pre-approved offers, current lenders evaluating your credit, landlords, or yourself do not count against your score.
  5. Types of Credit (10%)
    Having a mix of different types of credit such as credit cards, auto loans, and mortgage show experience managing different types of debt and this mix will positively impact your score.  Certain types of debt like in-store financing are correlated to higher default risk in borrowers and will negatively impact your score.

Improve Your Credit Score

  1. Review your credit report and correct errors.  You can request one report from each credit bureau every 12 months at www.annualcreditreport.com.  Review your report for inaccuracies and request a correction from the credit bureau where it appears.  By law, the credit bureau has 30 days to dispute your claim with the lender.  Remember to keep a copy for your records.
  2. Improve your payment history by getting current and staying current.
  3. Reduce your credit card balances until your credit line utilization is less than 25%
  4. Don’t open or apply for new credit.  Both of these will reduce your credit score
  5. Don’t close unused accounts.  Although this sounds counter-intuitive, closing an unused or zero-balance credit card will reduce your available credit line and therefore increase your credit line utilization.  Unless this card has an annual fee, leave it open.

Translate Your Higher Score into Lower Rates

After you have made significant progress paying down credit card debt and maintaining a consistent on-time payment history for 6-12 months, your credit score may have improved dramatically.  At this point, you can translate your higher score into lower interest costs.

  1. Lower your remaining credit card rates by calling your credit card company and asking for a lower rate.  They will pull your score and, recognizing that you could get lower rates elsewhere, may offer to lower your rate.  Renegotiating with your current card issuer is always preferable to getting a new card, as the new hard inquiry will lower your score.
  2. Refinance your mortgage.  If your score has improved significantly, the savings can be substantial.  Do your mortgage shopping within a 2-week window, as the scoring algorithm treats all hard inquiries within a short period of time as a single inquiry if done for the same type of loan.
  3. Take advantage of new balance transfer offers if these have become available to you.  Your credit score will take a hit, but the lower interest costs may justify it and it will rebound quickly as you continue to make payments on time and to reduce credit card balances.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Understanding Your Credit Report

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

Check Your Credit Report

Do you know how credit works?  It’s simple:  lenders set interest rates for borrowers based on their risk, knowing that some borrowers will be unable to pay them back.  The more likely that a customer will default on the loan, the more interest a lender will charge to compensate for this risk.  To assess how risky a borrower is, lenders use a credit report from one or all of the three big credit bureaus:  Equifax, TransUnion, and Experian.  These credit bureaus collect payment information from lenders and then provide it to banks, insurance companies, employers, and government agencies who request it for permissible purposes.

Your credit reports will contain of the following types of information:

  • Your personal information, including your name, address and Social Security number.
  • A summary of your accounts, both open and closed, going back for several years, showing credit limits, balances and your payment history.
  • The histories of your accounts, such as the balances, any past-due amounts, the duration, type of accounts, date opened, date of the last payment, payment amounts, charge-off amounts, high credit, comments and payment record for the past seven years.
  • Any public records of bankruptcies, tax liens, court judgments or child-support information. Charge-offs or collection accounts stay on record for up to 7 years and bankruptcies show on your report for up to 10 years.
  • The credit inquiries, other than your own, from creditors and others you’ve given permission to, such as employers and insurance companies. Credit inquiries show on your report for up to 12 months.

Your credit report will not contain your gender, race or ethnicity, national origin, religious preference or any other personal information that doesn’t apply directly to the way you handle debt and repayment. Neither will it contain any checking/savings account information, charge-offs or collections of more than seven years ago, nor bankruptcies of more than ten years ago.

Usually this process of reporting your credit information works well and provides good information on how well borrowers repay their loans, but a 2004 CALPIRG study reveals that 25% of credit reports contained errors serious enough to deny credit and 54% of reports contained less serious errors.  Mistakes on your credit report can result in higher interest rates, higher insurance premiums, and even being denied for a job.

How much can bad credit cost you?  A borrower with excellent credit may qualify for a 6% mortgage interest rate, while another with worse credit may get the same loan at 7.5%.  Over a 30-year mortgage on a $200,000 loan, this 1.5% difference can amount to nearly $70,000 more in interest!  Because so much is riding on your credit history, it’s important that you review your credit file annually to correct any errors.  Here’s how to review it:

  1. Pull your credit report from www.annualcreditreport.com
  2. Review your credit report to locate any errors
  3. File a dispute letter with the credit bureau explaining the incorrect data.  Be as specific as possible and provide proof if you are able.  Send the letter by certified mail.  The credit bureau will have 30 days to correct the mistake.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.