Archive for the ‘Emergency Savings’ Category

Credit Card Industry Providing Credit Help Websites?

Friday, April 17th, 2009

In the article entitled “Help with Credit Card Debt,” Gerri Willis, CNN’s personal finance editor, brings to our attention a new public relations move by a credit card industry trying to preempt a new regulatory system that will negatively impact their ability to make money. Quite simply, credit card companies banded together and put up a new website for consumer help. One of the goals of this site – HelpWithMyCredit.org – is to provide consumers with easier access to credit counselors. But the site doesn’t mention that using a credit counseling service from their list can drive down your credit score.

Aside from the credit counseling issue, should someone with debt take the rest of the website seriously? Probably not. For one, those building the website may offer helpful tips, but perverse incentives underlie whatever they present over the Internet: their long-term objective as a business remains to extract the maximum profits from consumers through their product – credit cards.

Take for example the page on credit card basics with the headline “Why You May Need Credit.” While some of the pointers they list are truthful, the page stills paints credit cards as a necessary part of life. But for those that struggle under the weight of revolving and overwhelming debt, many of the items in the list described as benefits are in reality not worth the cost by a long shot. They write, “Spreading out payments on high-dollar items” as one of the needs. However, if you can’t afford a high-dollar item and it is not critical to survival, then don’t spring for it.

Yet another of their “needs” is “Making urgent repairs to your car or home.” While few will argue with the need to keep a roof one’s head, perhaps the repair costs on a house that is already too expensive to maintain, with unrealistic mortgage payments and certain foreclosure is not worth adding money into. It can be the best course of action from a financial standpoint, depending on the specifics to the situation, to not repair a home and instead transitition into a rental unit. For a car, the need for reliable transportation to and from work is essential to financial security. But repairing a nonfunctional window or a scratch on the paint job are not needs; keeping the engine and tires in shape are. Even if faced with cases in which one needs to shell out for a house or car, build and rely on an emergency fund instead of the credit card.

The site goes on to identify Internet purchases as a need. The merits to buying over the Internet are numerous and include likely better price points for products because of economies of scale, the vendor’s efficient access to the target market, and the seller’s costs of doing business online. But this doesn’t mean you need a credit card to get the goods. Consider using a debit card, check card, or storing cash on a PayPal account for transfer to the seller at the point of purchase.

What accurately captures the perspective of someone thinking clearly about HelpWithMyCredit.org is one of their final bullet points – “Carry only the cards you expect to use, and keep the others in a safe place.” Why should someone not just get rid of the other cards, to say nothing of the ones you use? The truth is many people face the real temptation to go and retrieve the cards from their “safe place” – safe for reckless spending – and get into even deeper debt. Here’s a better idea for someone that is unmistakably going to fall back into the plastic routine: to maintain a credit history, keep one card open with the largest credit line, then immediately cut it up, freeze it, or toss it into a bonfire along with all of the other cards you have. Get rid of them once and for all, with one credit account left open.

Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Create an Emergency Expense Plan

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

Emergencies and setbacks are going to happen on your path to getting out of debt.  Some may be minor such as an auto repair or appliance replacement while others might be major such as a job loss.  Both types can throw you off track if you don’t have a plan.

The popular advice is that you should have 6-12 months of cash to cover emergencies, but stashing cash in a low-yield account may not be a good strategy if you can apply it to high-cost debt.  With good planning, you can maximize the amount you currently dedicate to debt while still having the security of knowing how you can cope with emergencies.

Lay out a game plan now so you know what to do when these moments come.

Suggested actions

  1. Understand your current spending levels and how you can deal with these under stress
    1. Use the Expense Profile form to outline your current monthly spending by major category.  Make sure to account for all spending-most of us tend to underestimate.
    2. Identify which expenses are mandatory such as rent or your mortgage payment vs. those that are discretionary such as cable, mobile phone, and entertainment.
    3. Identify which expenses you can cover on credit vs. those that must be paid in cash.  This will determine how much cash you must have access to.
  2. Use the Cash and Credit form to identify sources of cash and available credit
    1. Sources of cash: Have a plan to access cash from 401k loan, family loan, savings account, existing HELOC so that you can meet pressing needs without a cash advance or payday loan.  Consider setting up a HELOC or talking to family to line up credit now before an emergency arises.If you feel truly at risk of bankruptcy, you should understand which assets are protected from bankruptcy.  Home equity and retirement assets are generally protected in bankruptcy and tapping into these assets if you are at risk of bankruptcy will reduce your net worth as you come out.  If this is the case, you should avoid tapping these assets.
    2. Sources of credit:  Know which credit cards have the lowest APR and have a plan to tap these in order of cost.
    3. Use the Expense Coverage worksheet to determine how many months of coverage you have for essential and discretionary expenses.
  3. Create a plan for minor setbacks:
    1. How much cash and credit can you tap to meet minor emergencies?
    2. If this doesn’t provide a comfortable cushion, you may need to take aggressive action.  You may be able to meet this need by paying down credit card debt that you can tap later.
  4. Create a plan for major disasters
    1. Create a plan for how you will pay essential expenses
      1. Cash expenses
      2. Credit expenses
    2. Create a plan for reducing your discretionary expenses.  Plan to act quickly-rather than creating a sense of panic, this will allow you to feel in control of your situation and buy you some breathing room.  Create a list of expenses that you can quickly eliminate:  cable, cell phone, gym memberships, magazine subscriptions, etc. are all good candidates.  You may have to pay cancellation fees, but these actions will save you money in the long term.
    3. Know in advance how you can recover from a job loss.  Create or update your resume so you will be well-positioned to immediately be able to apply for jobs.  Build a network.  Know job finding resources.
    4. Create a plan for dealing with your creditors.
      1. Know which creditors you need to pay (mortgage and auto) and plan to pay these first.  These lenders may not be the loudest when things are tough, but they are the most important.
      2. Create a plan for calling creditors to explain your situation and ask for breaks.  These could be a loan modification (lower rates or longer term) or partial payments for some period of time until your situation improves.
    5. Although these are drastic steps you should have a plan for cutting your mandatory expenses such as auto or home along with a timeframe that will allow you to take action before your situation becomes a crisis:
      1. Move in with family
      2. Sell or trade-down cars
      3. Rent out house and move to an apartment
      4. Rent out a room in your house

Emergencies can be a time of incredible stress, but if you understand your options before they happen and take quick action when they do happen, you can reduce the economic impact and mental stress.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Understanding Your Debt Health (DTI Ratios)

Friday, February 20th, 2009

Most people are familiar with credit scores and know that they’re a measure of credit quality.  But do you know what it actually is?  You may be surprised, but your credit score actually doesn’t consider your income.  It just predicts how well you’re likely to continue to make payments based on your current debt level and past payment history.  Because of the way it’s calculated, it doesn’t attempt to predict how much debt you can afford to pay back based on your income.

To calculate whether your debt level is affordable, lenders use different metrics that compare your debt and other financial obligations to your income.  Front-end and Back-end Debt-to-Income (DTI) ratios are two that are frequently used by mortgage lenders as an indicator of your monthly financial health.  The names sound intimidating, but they’re just ratios that compare your fixed  monthly debt payments and other financial commitments to your monthly income to give lenders a sense for your ability to pay off your debt over time.  If your DTI levels are high, it means that a large portion of your income is going to cover your debt obligations and, as a result, you have a higher likelihood of not being able to manage your payments over time.

Understanding Your Income

Lenders take a holistic view of your income and include many factor that you may not immediately think of it when you think of your monthly income such as alimony, child support, social security payments, income from a second job (if you have had this source of income for at least two years), and investment income.  Generally, lenders will take you annual income and translate it into a monthly figure.

Front-End DTI (Housing Debt)

Front-End DTI is a measure of your ability to afford your current or proposed housing.  The mortgage lending guideline has traditionally been 28%.  The US Government considers 30% to be the point at which housing begins to be unaffordable.  So how is it calculated?

The front-end ratio is calculated by comparing the ratio of monthly housing expense to your gross (pre-tax) monthly income.  The monthly housing expense consists of principal, interest, property taxes, and insurance (PITI).  Since many housing choices have mandatory homeowner’s association dues and mortgage insurance, these amounts are added to the PITI to calculate the complete front-end DTI ratio.

What is a healthy front-end DTI?

Compare your DTI to the table below:

<28% 28% has been the traditional “safe” limit for bank lending and is a highly manageable housing debt load.
28-30% 28% has been the traditional “safe” limit for banks and 30% is the point at which the US government considers housing to start to be a risk.
>30% Above 30%, the expense ratio is such that the homeowner is at higher risk of default.  Many private mortgage lenders increased Front-End lending standards to 33% during the mortgage boom.

Back-End DTI (Total Debt Health)

The second measurement that lenders use to assess a lender’s health is the Back-End ratio, which is a comparison of your total monthly debt payments (PITI plus other monthly debt payments AND all of your other debt and fixed commitments) to your gross monthly income.  This measurement captures all recurring obligations beyond those attributable to housing (PITI + association dues and mortgage insurance).  This includes traditional debt such as credit card debt payments, auto loans, student loans, medical debt, and other loans.  But it also includes other fixed obligations such as auto leases, child support, alimony, judgments, and other monthly obligations.

When computing this ratio, lenders look at the long term and generally only consider your obligations that will still exist after 6-10 months.

So what’s healthy?  Traditionally, lenders consider a Back-End ratio less than 38% as manageable and healthy.  How are you?  Compare your ratio to the table below:

<32% This is a highly conservative debt load for most people and should be highly manageable, with very little risk to your broader financial goals.
32-36% This is a very manageable debt load for most people and is generally considered very manageable by lenders.  With this debt load, there is little risk that these commitments will become unmanageable.
36-42% This level of financial commitment may be manageable in the short run, but can put you at risk over the longer term.  Work to reduce your debt load to the lower end of this range by paying off credit card and other debt as rapidly as possible.
42-49% This debt ratio is high and could indicate future financial difficulty if you don’t take immediate action.  Pay off credit card and other obligations as quickly as possible to improve your financial condition.
>50% At this level, you may have to consider immediate drastic action to move to a safer zone.  Pay off credit card and other obligations as quickly as possible to improve your financial condition.  If you feel that you cannot make headway against your debt with your current resources, see help from a qualified credit counselor.  At this level, you may also have to consider options such as debt settlement or bankruptcy.

Summary

As with everything, the front-end and back-end DTI metrics are relative.  If you don’t have consumer debt such as credit card and auto debt, you may be comfortable with a higher front-end DTI.  If you have children and anticipate the costs of children and college educations, you may wish to keep your debt ratios lower than a couple that does not anticipate having children.  Finally, if you are older and anticipating retirement, you may wish to have lower DTI ratios than someone younger who has longer to pay off their debt.

As with many things in life, there are no absolutes and your comfort level may depend on factors.  But in this case lower is always better, so aggressively work your DTI ratios down to a comfortable level.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.