Posts Tagged ‘credit score’

Understand Your Credit Score

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

Credit Basics: How Banks Price Risk

Credit is simple.  The more likely a borrower is to default on a loan, the higher the likelihood that the lender will lose money on that loan, even with the interest fees.  As a result, lenders often refuse to make loans to risky borrowers or charge higher rates because they know that some portion of risky borrowers will default.

Although this sounds unfair, it’s is simply the lending market at work: pricing the default risk as an implicit cost of making the loan.  The difference in cost can be dramatic.  Two people getting a $200,000 loan on the same house might pay very different interest rates based on their credit histories.  A borrower with a high credit score might qualify for an interest rate of 6% while the less creditworthy borrower might qualify for a 7.5% rate.  This difference of 1.5% in interest rates translates into a higher monthly payment of $250 and adds up to over $70,000 in higher interest payments over the life of the loan.  Just think what you could do with that savings!

Getting Your Credit Score

Although you can get a copy of your credit report for free at www.annualcreditreport.com, you will generally have to pay to get your credit score.  You can purchase this at www.myFICO.com.

Credit Scores: Your Credit History in a 3-Digit Number

Before the advent of the credit score, lenders used to carefully review each potential borrower’s credit file for signs that they would faithfully repay the loan.  As lenders grew in size and volumes of transactions, this personal review process became cumbersome and full of variation.  As a result, methods were created for summarizing all the information in your credit file into a single number.

This credit scores provides a standardized way of comparing the risk that a borrower will default on a loan.  The higher your score, the less risk you present of default, so lenders will be willing to lend to you at a lower rate.  Because not all lenders report to all credit bureaus, the three major credit bureaus may report different credit scores.

The first company to popularize the credit score was Fair Isaac, creator of the FICO score.  Since then, other scores have emerged, but the FICO score remains the most popular.  Regardless of the model used, credit scores are generally between 350 at the low end to 850 at the high end.

How Your Credit Score is Determined

FICO scores are determined by assigning varying weights to five important factors:

  1. Payment History (35%)
    Borrowers who are current on their accounts generally have lower default risk.  Delinquencies, late payments, collection actions, and bankruptcies have a major negative impact on your score.  The more recent the delinquency is, the larger the negative impact.  The good news is that by paying on time, your credit score can start to improve in as little as 6 months, although bankruptcies will stay on your credit report for 10 years.
  2. Outstanding Debt and Credit Line Utilization (30%)
    This factors in your overall debt levels on auto and home loans as well as how close your credit card balances are to the credit limit.  This last factor, your credit line utilization (total credit card balances divided by total credit line), measures how much of your credit you are using.  Fair Isaac has found that borrowers who use a higher percentage of their available credit are a higher risk of default.  Your credit line utilization should ideally be less than 25% and roughly the same on all cards.
  3. Length of Credit History (15%)
    A long credit history gives creditors an idea of your payment actions over a period of time. If you have a short credit history less is known about your risk and therefore creditors conservatively rate you as higher risk.
  4. New Credit and Credit Inquiries (10%)
    Opening a new account may indicate that you are taking on debt obligations that you won’t be able to manage or that you are desperate and are relying on credit to meet expenses.  Similarly, applying for credit which shows up as a hard inquiry on your credit report, may indicate that you are about to take on more debt than you can handle.  Soft inquiries from pre-approved offers, current lenders evaluating your credit, landlords, or yourself do not count against your score.
  5. Types of Credit (10%)
    Having a mix of different types of credit such as credit cards, auto loans, and mortgage show experience managing different types of debt and this mix will positively impact your score.  Certain types of debt like in-store financing are correlated to higher default risk in borrowers and will negatively impact your score.

Improve Your Credit Score

  1. Review your credit report and correct errors.  You can request one report from each credit bureau every 12 months at www.annualcreditreport.com.  Review your report for inaccuracies and request a correction from the credit bureau where it appears.  By law, the credit bureau has 30 days to dispute your claim with the lender.  Remember to keep a copy for your records.
  2. Improve your payment history by getting current and staying current.
  3. Reduce your credit card balances until your credit line utilization is less than 25%
  4. Don’t open or apply for new credit.  Both of these will reduce your credit score
  5. Don’t close unused accounts.  Although this sounds counter-intuitive, closing an unused or zero-balance credit card will reduce your available credit line and therefore increase your credit line utilization.  Unless this card has an annual fee, leave it open.

Translate Your Higher Score into Lower Rates

After you have made significant progress paying down credit card debt and maintaining a consistent on-time payment history for 6-12 months, your credit score may have improved dramatically.  At this point, you can translate your higher score into lower interest costs.

  1. Lower your remaining credit card rates by calling your credit card company and asking for a lower rate.  They will pull your score and, recognizing that you could get lower rates elsewhere, may offer to lower your rate.  Renegotiating with your current card issuer is always preferable to getting a new card, as the new hard inquiry will lower your score.
  2. Refinance your mortgage.  If your score has improved significantly, the savings can be substantial.  Do your mortgage shopping within a 2-week window, as the scoring algorithm treats all hard inquiries within a short period of time as a single inquiry if done for the same type of loan.
  3. Take advantage of new balance transfer offers if these have become available to you.  Your credit score will take a hit, but the lower interest costs may justify it and it will rebound quickly as you continue to make payments on time and to reduce credit card balances.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Understanding Your Credit Report

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

Check Your Credit Report

Do you know how credit works?  It’s simple:  lenders set interest rates for borrowers based on their risk, knowing that some borrowers will be unable to pay them back.  The more likely that a customer will default on the loan, the more interest a lender will charge to compensate for this risk.  To assess how risky a borrower is, lenders use a credit report from one or all of the three big credit bureaus:  Equifax, TransUnion, and Experian.  These credit bureaus collect payment information from lenders and then provide it to banks, insurance companies, employers, and government agencies who request it for permissible purposes.

Your credit reports will contain of the following types of information:

  • Your personal information, including your name, address and Social Security number.
  • A summary of your accounts, both open and closed, going back for several years, showing credit limits, balances and your payment history.
  • The histories of your accounts, such as the balances, any past-due amounts, the duration, type of accounts, date opened, date of the last payment, payment amounts, charge-off amounts, high credit, comments and payment record for the past seven years.
  • Any public records of bankruptcies, tax liens, court judgments or child-support information. Charge-offs or collection accounts stay on record for up to 7 years and bankruptcies show on your report for up to 10 years.
  • The credit inquiries, other than your own, from creditors and others you’ve given permission to, such as employers and insurance companies. Credit inquiries show on your report for up to 12 months.

Your credit report will not contain your gender, race or ethnicity, national origin, religious preference or any other personal information that doesn’t apply directly to the way you handle debt and repayment. Neither will it contain any checking/savings account information, charge-offs or collections of more than seven years ago, nor bankruptcies of more than ten years ago.

Usually this process of reporting your credit information works well and provides good information on how well borrowers repay their loans, but a 2004 CALPIRG study reveals that 25% of credit reports contained errors serious enough to deny credit and 54% of reports contained less serious errors.  Mistakes on your credit report can result in higher interest rates, higher insurance premiums, and even being denied for a job.

How much can bad credit cost you?  A borrower with excellent credit may qualify for a 6% mortgage interest rate, while another with worse credit may get the same loan at 7.5%.  Over a 30-year mortgage on a $200,000 loan, this 1.5% difference can amount to nearly $70,000 more in interest!  Because so much is riding on your credit history, it’s important that you review your credit file annually to correct any errors.  Here’s how to review it:

  1. Pull your credit report from www.annualcreditreport.com
  2. Review your credit report to locate any errors
  3. File a dispute letter with the credit bureau explaining the incorrect data.  Be as specific as possible and provide proof if you are able.  Send the letter by certified mail.  The credit bureau will have 30 days to correct the mistake.

Scott Crawford is CEO of DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Should You Take that 0 APR Credit Card Offer?

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

The offers used to come in the mail by the bucketfuls: “0 APR on balance transfers.” While the frequency of these envelopes arriving in the mail has slowed to a crawl in recent months, they’re still out there. Many are struggling with debt, and rightfully need to employ every tool in their arsenal to reduce and eliminate it. For those with outstanding credit card debt, one option in particular should be evaluated: a 0 APR credit card balance transfer. Here’s what to look for when debating the 0 APR balance transfer deal:

Terms of the 0 APR Balance Transfer Deal

What are the fees and surcharges associated with the balance transfer deal? What does the post- 0 APR credit card rate leap up to? How long does the 0 APR period last? What other factors affect the status of the 0 APR period?

Your risk of not paying off the transferred amount by the end of the 0 APR period

Lenders obviously see a chance to make some money off of you by giving zero percent offers – they’re banking on you not clearing the balance before the zero percent window expires so that they can charge the maximum APR. Thus, if you do choose one of the several zero percent offers, first identify clearly through your budget and debt plan the feasibility of eliminating this transferred debt.

Find out the default interest rate charged by the lender for late payments or an over-the-limit balance 

When using the snowball method, prioritize paying down the amounts on the 0 APR balances, especially if the 0 APR window is short (a few months), in order to avoid the risk of getting hit with the default rate. If the 0 APR period is long, then prioritize paying down your highest interest amounts, but then stop and switch towards paying off the 0 APR balances just in time to clear them before the low interest rate period expires.

Essentially, there is no universal formula that can be applied to all cases. Each individual should systematically examine their own outstanding debt balances, identify which approaches are going to best motivate, and set up a clear budget plan and debt payment schedule that includes basic safeguards against falling prey to the expiration of the 0 APR period.

 

Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Learn More

Visit our website - DebtGoal.com

Learn about the DebtGoal management tool

Mortgage Help Grows

Monday, February 16th, 2009

Elizabeth O’Brien recently wrote for The Wall Street Journal an article on new help for those with mortgages. Some of the key points include:

  • “[B]anks are more willing than ever to help homeowners avoid foreclosure
  • “As long as you can afford your monthly payments, banks don’t care that you owe more than your house is worth.”
  • A credit score of at least 720 is a good cut off point for those seeking to gain payment relief through a refinancing scheme.
  • It is not necessarily the case anymore that one has to be behind on their mortgage payments for banks to negotiate with you to change your terms or change your payment amount, so do not rule out discussing your case with the bank even if you forecast reduced monthly income or another basis for being unable to make mortgage payments.
Viewed as a cost instead of an investment, housing needs to be dealt with alongside other monthly expenses such as food and transportation. These Big Three monthly costs that each must handle should be organized, evaluated, and placed within a plan to manage both debt and expenses, no matter how simple the strategy.

Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.

Learn More

Visit our website - DebtGoal.com

Learn about the DebtGoal management tool

Call About Rates

Monday, January 26th, 2009

This week we feature advice on what to do the first week that you decide to get out of debt. Some of the activities you should consider doing right off the bat are things that are not too time-consuming and can make a large impact on your debt moving forward.

Step One: Contact Your Credit Card Issuers About Having Your Interest Rates Lowered

Contacting your credit card companies is straightforward and easy. Here’s the step-by-step process:

1. Amass all of your credit cards. This includes those that do not sit in your wallet and ones for which you may not even have an outstanding balance.

2. Find out your outstanding balances on each card, the current interest rate on the card, the contact phone number (usually listed on the back of the card), and your credit score. Pulling your credit score from each of the three major ratings agencies (Experian, Transunion, Equifax) is free once per year.

3. Brainstorm and write down as many reasons that you can think that you should have your rates lowered. Some of the reasons might include:

  • Good payment history
  • Proven ability to meet payment deadlines, even if just the minimum payment is made
  • Long credit history with the particular lender
  • Significant transactions made on the card, either one-time purchases or consistent spending with the card over time.
  • Good credit score
  • Unsatisfied service from the credit card currently or in the past
The secret to the credit lending industry is that they are faced with fierce competition to get customers signed up for their cards. But the issuer may not believe you fully understand your alternatives unless you present them over the phone in clear terms. This leads to the second step: quickly identifying your best alternatives to each of your current credit cards.
 
Step Two: What are your best alternatives?
 
To figure out your best alternative, research other card offers that you will qualify for. Write down all of the introductory rates that you will get were you to sign up for another card, the quick facts to any balance transfer programs that they offer, and the limit on the credit card that they are willing to offer you. An excellent database of different credit cards is at CardRatings.com. Then simply call up each credit card issuer and explain to them that you will do a full balance transfer to a new zero percent rate card at another lender unless they lower your interest rates. While this strategy should produce results, for some, this will not be adequate to convince the issuers to lower their rates. Then, consider pairing your battle to lower rates with an effective approach to eliminating debt: snowballing.
 
Combine with the Snowball Method
 
A creative way to combine your efforts to have your credit card interest rates reduced is to sync this approach with the snowball method. As you clear the balance on each credit card by snowballing your debt payments, that particular card with the new zero balance becomes your negotiating leverage. First, call the card issuer with the zero balance, explaining to them that you had been unsatisfied with service on it and as a result paid off the card entirely. Suggest to them that if they want your business moving forward, they offer you a much better interest rate on the card. Then specifically ask them what their company-wide base rate is for their cards. Once they tell you this, you can easily figure out a new interest rate for your card. Specifically, the issuer should be able to offer you a new rate equal to prime rate + issuer’s base rate. If this new rate is lower than your current rate on that card, then it might be a good option to take. If this doesn’t work, then just tell the credit card issuer your new interest rate on any of your zero balance transfer options and that to stop the transfer, their rates need to be lowered.
 
As you clear more and more balances with the snowball method, call up each of those issuers and run through the same discussion. For any future reduction efforts, your leverage is even higher, because you have not one but mulitple cards with a zero balance. Once you have several cards with new, reduced interest rates, any additional cards for which you want the interest rate lowered is easier to discuss since the suite of reduced-rate cards you hold will, in a sense, represent a market standard for what you should be offered in the first place. In short, while this approach may take some time, it is sure to pay off. Keep in mind that with this combined strategy, you will want to prioritize paying off the cards with the lowest balances first.
 
Raj Patel writes for DebtGoal.com, a do-it-yourself system for getting out of debt and lowering your interest costs.  DebtGoal.com incorporates all of the techniques discussed in this post and can help users understand and get visibility to and manage their debt finances.